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July 20, 2006

ボルダリング道場 in PUMP2

水曜はボルダリング。

PUMP1に行こうと思っていたのだが、黒陣馬さんが体調不良ということもありメンツが揃いそうにない。
どうしようと思っているとトモちゃんが行くという。トモちゃんにとってはちょい遠いが、初級道場があるのでPUMP2へ。

19時過ぎに到着し、早速3Fのボルダリングエリアへ。
簡単な課題でアップし、4級課題攻略へ。
今日の進展はEARTH壁の手足限定の茶色↑(写真の青○)。
179641328_84


最後の一手までいった。最後の足の処理にバタつかなければゴールとれたかも。

20時過ぎにトモちゃん到着。再度3Fに上がると既に初級道場が始まっていた。とりあえずトモちゃんといくつかの課題を。久しぶりなのか動きがぎこちないが、それでも継続すればすぐに以前のように登りそうなかんじ。

初級道場に行ってみるとたけさんが。
今日の課題のいくつかを教えてもらい、やってみる。
課題はいずれも手足限定。

最初の課題は問題なくクリア。体感グレードは6級くらい?

次の課題はゴール手前の核心で失敗。ヒールフックがあまくずり落ちる。2度目のトライで完登。これは5級くらいかなあ。

次の課題は難しかった(写真の赤○)。
1度目のトライは2手目で失敗。たけさんにアドバイスをもらい手順を変えてやってみると、2度目で完登。むずかしめの5級くらいなのかな。

次の課題はダメダメ。今日は落とせないと実感。これは4級くらいだろう。

その次はスラブ課題。苦手なスラブだけあって、ショボショボ。

その後トモちゃんと合流し、トモちゃんがてこずっていた6級課題をお互い動画に撮って違いをチェック。久しぶりに自分のムーブを客観的に見てみたが、意外や意外。結構うまいこと登っている。
なんか上手くなっているかも。

トモちゃんも初級道場の最初の課題をやってみるが、核心のデッドポイントがとれず。
アドバイスしているうちに、最初と2番目の課題をトライしていた人たちからアドバイスを求められる。何度か登ってみたりしていろいろとアドバイスなんぞしてみる。
うーん、偉くなったもんだ(^-^;)いいのかよ。
でも道場は初対面の人ともお互いに応援しあったり、協力しあえてなかなか良い。これからも機会があれば参加しよう。

最後にたけさんに前回課題をひとつ紹介してもらうが、これがメチャメチャ難しい。なにせ最初の一手がとれない。これは攻略しがいがあるというものだ。
もうひとつ、今日の最終課題を。これも激ムズ。完登者はいなかったようだ。

まだまだ道のりは長いなあ。

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