« クライミングバカ列伝 K井さん | Main | PUMP2-ビギナー道場 »

February 17, 2007

御岳-デッドエンド岩

今日は御岳へ。
アメリカから一時帰国中のポンするめさん、たけ。さん、かなさん、nomadさん、まっきさん、遅れてこわさんとおしおさんも。

7級を登った後、デッドエンド1級にポンするめさん、たけ。さんとトライするが、スタートから1手目とって次の左足が全然決まらない。

こわさん、おしおさんはデッドエンド横断(初段)を。
が、おしおさんが腰をやってしまって早々にリタイア。アシモみたいな動きになっていたけど、無事帰れたんだろうか。お大事に。

デッドエンド1級は今日はいいやということで、右側に移動して、nomadさん、まっきさん、たけ。さんと3級にトライ。かなさんはモチが低くてもっぱらガンバ係り。

4人であれやこれやとムーブ解決して、見事全員クリア。
かなさんも重い腰を挙げてクリア。

ムーブはこんなカンジ。

Img_2486
①スタートしたら右足をヒールフックして、右手をやや上の皺へ

Img_2487
②ヒールフックした右足を下のスタンスに戻し、左足をやや上のスタンスに

Img_2490
③右足を一気に高いスタンスに置いて掻きこむように乗り上げる

Img_2492
④右手を更に上の皺に、やや左に体重移動(右手がかかる)して左手を上のカンテへ

Img_2494
⑤左足をスメアしながら右足に体重を乗せて体を上げる

Img_2496
⑥左足が置けたらバッチリ

Img_2501

その後ほぼ全員でイギリス人のトラバース(2級)にトライ。

こわさんだけが落とした。足置きとか皆に絶賛されて「パワーだけじゃない」ことがアピールできて満足そうだった。

下部のトラバースでクロスの後左足にうまく乗り込めない。難しい。

最後に中華料理屋で飯食って解散。デッドエンドな一日だった。

■今日の成果

【デッドエンド岩】
7級 ○ アップ
3級 ○ 3回登ったのでこれはもうバッチリ

|

« クライミングバカ列伝 K井さん | Main | PUMP2-ビギナー道場 »

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