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March 18, 2007

ヘロヘロ御岳

金曜、土曜とPUMP2でガッツリ登ってしまったが、今日は御岳へ。
ヨセミテに車でピックアップしてもらい、御岳の発電所駐車場に12時頃到着。

デッドエンドは4~5人ほど。天気もいいからもっと多いかと思ったけど皆忍者返しとかかな。
今日も釣り人が多かった。

さっそく7級でアップ.....って4トライもかかってしまう。ヨレ過ぎ?

別の7級も落として、3級を再度落とす。3級のムーブは完璧だ。今日は7級より楽に落としている。ってそれはそれでどうなのか。

イギリス人のトラバースを二人でトライしていると、moeさん登場。
これがデッドエンド岩です。さあ、7級やりましょう。

moeさんも7級2つおとし、3級にトライ。
が、リーチ差が出ているようで苦戦する。スタートからヒールで1手目に届かず。
何回かトライしたけどこれは持ち越し。

今日はヨレヨレでイギリス人のトラバースは下部のクロスまでが精一杯。
ヨセミテも同様にヨレていたけど....3段登ってんじゃねーの?的な声を張り上げ、なんとかゲット。
が、トラバース中にちょっと接地したらしい。いいんじゃねーの?と言ったけど満足してない様子。

ふと中州ボルダーを見ると、前回崩壊していた橋の変わりに、新しい橋が出来上がっていた。
ということで中州ボルダーに移動

Dsc01831
         中州ボルダー

【ジャンピングフック(1級)】のムーブを探る。離陸はできたけどそこから先がよくわからない。
しょうがないので6級から。3人とも無事完登。

ヨセミテは4級もゲット。私はヨレヨレでもうちょいのところで落とせず。うーん体が重い。
Dsc01833
      6級にトライするヨセミテ

日も落ちかけてきたので最後に丸こんにゃく岩へ。

Dsc01834
       丸こんにゃく岩

さきほどまで日が当たっていたようで、日陰なのに岩はあたたかい。
一番右の10級をあっさりと落とし、ヨセミテと二人で【丸こんにゃく右(1級)】にトライ。
moeさんはトポ片手に別の岩に。

ヨセミテが登ったのだけど、途中ガバを使ったのでナシなんじゃ?と。
トポみるとガバ付近を通っているからありなのかな。
ただ左の【丸こんにゃく中央(1級)】にはガバどころか極小カチしかないので、やっぱりナシなのかな。
私は離陸がやっと。

最後に二人で【魅惑の丸こんにゃく(SD二段)】に無謀にもチャレンジするも、離陸もできず。流石二段。

17時前になったのでまたもや「渓流」にいって夕食を。
moeさんが「わさび餃子」が気になるそうなので注文。
私には「アリ」だったけど、他の二人は「ナシ」だったようで。

3連続で最終日が外岩って相当つらいな。もうヘトヘト。
moeさんを御岳駅まで送り、帰路に。

この3日はずっとヨセミテと行動してたんだけど、帰りに発見が。

お互い、土曜のルートはナシと思ってた。

金曜に
私「土曜、ルートだったらいけるんじゃね?」
ヨ「軽いのやりましょうよ。」
私「5.10aとかなら日曜大丈夫だろ」

なんて会話だったんですが、結局土曜もガッツリ。
抑止することって難しいですな。

お疲れ様ー。

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