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March 17, 2008

王子ヶ岳ボルダー

3/15土曜日は山井さんと岡山は王子ヶ岳へ。

宿泊先の西明石のキャッスルホテルに7時待ち合わせ。あれ?時間になったけどな。と山井さんから電話。
「もう着いてますよ」いやいやいないじゃない。「西明石のキャッスルホテルですけど」「え?明石のじゃなくて?」
明石城前のキャッスルホテルに行ったようです。

なんとか合流して一路王子ヶ岳へ。順調に進んで山陽道に。
と、山井さんが「あれ?あれ?」
サイフ忘れたようです。再度西明石へ。

ということでしょーもない話を延々して予定より1時間以上遅れて王子ヶ岳に到着。

まずは東のボルダリングエリアへ。
最初にとりついたのは【ナテハ】2級。ハテナマークが逆になったホールドがあります。だからナテハ?
アップなしで2級はつらいです。右のガバ使ってしまいましたがどうやらガバはなしが正解みたいです。結局登れなかったんで一緒ですが。

裏に廻って【ダイアゴナルライン】3級へ。このあたりの課題はかなり高さがあります。トラバースする個所が忍者返し岩くらいの高さです。めっちゃ怖い。
Sany0108

もういいッス。ってことでちょっと下に移動して【リタイアメント】1級に。

Sany0107

山井さんが登ったとのことなのでムーブを教えてもらうも.....全然覚えてねーじゃねーか。
しばらく二人で打つも登れず。山井さんホントの登ったの?登ったと言い張っているので登ったということにしておきました。この課題はかなり面白かったです。

飽きたのでニコニコ岩エリアへ向かうことに。

しばらく歩くと視界がひらけ、瀬戸内海を一望できます。すごい!
パラグライダーが見えます。

Sany0021
真ん中あたりにパラグライダーが。わかるかな。

さらに歩くとニコニコ岩が見えました。本当にニコニコしてます。

Sany0036

途中「バカと煙は高いところが好き」を実践するような【ヤバめなトコ】行ったり。
Sany0044
Sany0058

ニコニコ岩脇の【スプンカットフェース】初段にトライ。

Sany0109

ホールドがアマアマでバランシー。難しいです。
さらに【ファッテッドカーフカンテ】1級と【ファッテッドカーフダイレクト】初段を。左のカンテに抜けると1級。直上で初段という課題。

Sany0110

いいのはスタートのホールドとスタンスだけ。やや前傾しているのにホールドはかなり微妙でバランシー。いい課題です。

最後に入り口のボルダーエリアに移動して【安藤君のカンテ】2級でしめることに。

Sany0111

かなり惜しいところまで行きましたが、花崗岩で指皮はなくなったのとヨレで完登ならず。
これにて終了。今回は殆ど他のボルダラーと遭遇しなかったので、トライした全ての岩を丁寧にブラッシングしました。

最後に下に降りてかつてクラックルートだったエリアを見にいきました。

Sany0087

不動明王が描かれてます。驚いたのは全てのクラックが埋められてるんです。一体なにがあったんでしょうか。
あり得ないところにリングボルトがありました。グレードなんぼなんでしょうかね。

これにて終了。二人とも成果ゼロでしたが楽しかったからいいかな。
王子ヶ岳はとにかくロケーションが最高でした。ボルダリング以外でも充分楽しめます。

Sany0093

山井さん、運転おつかれさま。ありがとう。また来たいね。
今回は動画を沢山とったのでDVDにします。blogにもあとでちょっとだけ動画載せます。

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Comments

おつかれー。
残念だったねぇ・・・俺は前回登ったけど。

Posted by: 山井さん | March 17, 2008 at 08:31 AM

>山井さん
おつかれー。いろいろありがと。
前回登ったっていう体だよね。わかってるわかってる。

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