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May 26, 2008

小川山

予告通り小川山に行ってきました。

やっぱり暑い。
意外にもそこそこ人がいます。って平日ってこんなもんなのかな。

まずは石の魂岩に向かいます。
.......初めて行くエリアだったのでめちゃめちゃ迷いました。30分以上さまよったな。

Sany0001
          石の魂

アップもせず【石の魂】初段を。

何回かトライしましたがだいたいこんな感じ。指皮ごっそり持っていかれました。これ、がんばれば落とせるかな。でもカチとポケットで指イテー。
この動画だと飛ばしで右のかかるガバカチとってるけど、これ最初から取れるんだよね。これスタートでもいいのかな。
A.I.Tもやらずに石楠花エリアに向かうことに。

まずは瞳岩に。

Sany0017

【神の瞳】初段がお買い得と聞いたのでやってみる。

......しけってるしまったくムーブが起こせない。誰だお買い得なんていった奴は。

すぐに撤収して忘却岩へ。

Sany0025

【忘却の果て】初段やろうかなと思ったけどスタートがよくわからない。
せっかくなんで【忘却の河】二段やってみることに。

むずい。ヨレる。まだ核心部に到達できなかったけどそこそこ可能性を感じました。
バラしてやってみたけど2級にリンクするところが結構つらい。

成果がないと嫌なんでマントル2級を。

ヤバい落ち方しました。首がグキっとなってちょっと痛い。軽い脳震盪が。

気分を変えるために流れ岩に。

ここで性懲りもなく【大いなる河の流れ】二段をトライするも。
まったく話になりません。スタートできたくらいで後はどこもできず。ガバからの一手遠いな。これは今んとこまったく可能性ないですね。

最後に一筆岩へ。

【一筆】初段、スタートすら切れません。スタンスどこ?

5時くらいになってちょっと涼しくなってきてコンディションがちょっと良くなってきたけど、すでに6時間もやってヨレヨレ。指皮ボロボロなんで帰ることに。

今日打った中では【石の魂】が一番アリかなあ。【忘却の河】もやってけばそのうち完登が見えてくるかも。

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Comments

石魂のスタートはかかりのいいカチからスタートでOKです。その後は左手ガストン痛ポッケで右手ガチャガチャ縦ホールドでリップへランジ。途中のガバポッケ使うと1Q。核心はランジ。

神の瞳は本当にお買い得だって。細かいスタンスにのる必要はあるけどね。繊細キュライマーなら全然OK。うちのブログの2005/11/19を見てね。核心は....ないです。

忘却の果ては説明がムズイのでやはり2005/10/30を見てちょ。

一筆は....あれは3Dです、自分の中では。登れる気がしない。超お買い損。ちなみに達筆もお買い損な3Qです。

忘却の河は....やってないのでしりません。
でも2Qのパートも登れてないじゃん!まず右手をリップへもっていくべし!

大いなる~はテクニカル。ヒールとトゥを駆使しないとダメです。馬鹿力だけじゃダメでしょう(^.^)後半よれてまだ登れてませんが....

Posted by: こわ | May 28, 2008 at 01:02 AM

>こわさん
長い説明ありがとう。
忘却の果ては今日伸介さんが完登してたんでムーブはわかったよ。
忘却の河も進展があったよ。初二段はこれにしようっと。

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