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August 24, 2008

被験者

今日は仕事だったが、やや早めに終わったのでPUMP2へ。

今日はある目的が。
大学の研究でクライミングにおける指の負荷を調べてるというので是非調べてもらおうと。
受付でチョー久しぶりにyola10.5と遭遇。

着いたら何人か待ちだったのでとりあえず3Fへ。

tokuさん、ミナエモン君らと水色課題やったり、後から来たゲンちゃん、スタッフS木君、tokuさんと左の小癪な紺課題やったり。

あ、数馬君だ。こんにちはー。啓代ちゃん、亜咲ちゃんもいますね。皆ホント強いなあ。
そろそろいいかな、とtokuさん誘って2Fへ。ゲンちゃんは面倒くさがりそうなんで放置。

まずはアンケート。クライミング暦、グレード、トレーニング頻度などを記入。

Imgp0090s
やる気マンマンのtokuさん

さて、最初の測定は握力。クライミングやる前は50kgくらいだったけど.......
結果は50kgにやや届かず。変わってねえええ。
以前20kg台だったらしいtokuさんは40kgにちょい届かないくらい。自己ベスト更新おめでとう。

上腕の太さは両腕とも25.5cm。tokuさんはオレより1cm足りず。意外に差がないんだな。

で、片手でフィンガーボードに加重をかけるテスト。ぶら下がれるかと思ったら全然ダメ。こちらは左右とも40前後。

で、両手でどのくらいの時間ぶら下がれるかのテスト。

Imgp0091s
変な顔してる。チンパンジーと調教のおねえさんみたい。

1分に届かず57秒。意外にぶら下がれないもんだな。

Imgp0092s
tokuさんガンバー

tokuさんが58秒。1分超えはなかなか難しい。この情報を聞きつけたゲンちゃんがぶら下がりだけやりに......1分34秒。やるな。

最後に指の関節の屈曲と伸展角度を。これがなかなか興味深かった。
オレの場合、左手のほうが使いすぎらしく付け根と先端の伸展がすくないらしい。両手とも0度より伸びるのは関節に負担がかかりやすいとのこと。(もっともクライミングでは不要な動きだけど)

アイシングした後、入念にストレッチをしたほうがいいみたい。終了後にはやったことないんで今度からやってみよ。

Imgp0094s

なかなか面白かったです。PUMP2は今日までで、次はロッキーだそうです。

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Comments

私はぶら下がり1分超えましたよーgood
たぶん、手が小さい人や(体重の軽い)女子は有利でしょうね。

Posted by: まり。 | August 25, 2008 at 12:09 AM

調教のおねぇさん、ちゃんとバナナ持ってなきゃ~
そうすりゃ1分超えたやろにー

Posted by: よね | August 25, 2008 at 11:33 AM

>まり。さん
ルートやっている人のほうがぶら下がっていられる気がします。しかし流石ですね。

>よねちゃん
バナナあれば1分半は....ってコラ。

Posted by: gen | August 26, 2008 at 12:26 AM

ぶら下がり勝った~!!
90秒くらいぶらさがれましたぜよ。

Posted by: にゅう | August 27, 2008 at 08:25 PM

>にゅうちゃん
握力も勝ってんじゃね?なわけないか。
実はRieさんに聞いてたんだよね。90秒はさすが。

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